Transparent, thin silk chiffon is a very delicate fabric and requires an extremely careful attitude. He is very moody at work, but the result is worth all the difficulties.
Silk chiffon does not tolerate ripping, neglects thick needles and threads, especially does not tolerate those needles for sewing, the tips of which are imperfectly sharp and thin.
How to work with transparent fabrics
Given all these features, to work with silk chiffon, choose:
✂ only thin needles for hand sewing;
✂ special needles for the sewing machine for working with silk No. 75, 70 and 60;
✂ thin threads
For sewing, you can use thin overlock threads or the so-called “lower” bobbin threads, which are used for embroidery on a sewing machine.
Using the wide frills of the sleeves of a beach tunic dress from Burda 7/2013 as an example, I will show how to pick up a piece of silk chiffon:
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Step 1
Set the maximum stitch length on your sewing machine.
If necessary, adjust the upper / lower thread tension.
Step 2
On one-piece ruffles of sleeves, sew short sections.
Treat one long section on the overlock with a role seam.
Conditionally divide the frill in half. Label the tailor's chalk or pin.
Step 3
Along the top cut of a one-piece frill on both sides (from the marking to the seam), lay only one line to complete the assembly, departing from the edge 1-1.5 cm.
Bindings at the beginning and end of the line do not need to be done, leave the ends of the threads free.
Important!
The second line of picking, as in the classical way, is not necessary to lay!
How to pick up fabric
After seizing and grinding the parts, the threads of the assembly are removed. And in such a delicate and thin fabric like chiffon, small holes can remain that will spoil the appearance of the product and reduce its wear resistance in these places.
Step 4
Tie the threads to knots only at the beginning or at the end of the stitch.
Combine the frill:
Gently pull the cut on the bobbin thread on both sides from the marking to the width of the sleeve along the bottom edge.
Distribute the assembly so that it is uniform over the entire length.
Step 5
Put the rim on the sleeve face to face, aligning the sections and seams of the parts.
Often chop a frill with a sleeve.
Step 6
Stitch the trim close to the sewing line.
Lay the stitch over the assembled part. So you can control the assembly location along the entire seam line.
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Step 7
Gather stitching lines carefully.
Step 8
Trim the seam allowances, work on the overlock and carefully iron up.
Zigzag stitch processing
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Run the tunic in exactly the same way as the ruffles of the sleeves, with only a few exceptions:
✂ The trim on the bottom of the tunic consists of two parts, so lay the sewing line on the front and back parts of the frill separately.
✂ First, trim one part of the frill, carefully pulling the cut on the lower thread to the length of the lower cut of the shelf.
✂ Often knit the assembled side of the frill with the shelf with the sides facing each other, aligning the sections and the side seams of the parts.
✂ And then, in the same way, pick up the back of the frill and chop it with the back.
The author of the master class and photo: Julia Dekanova
