The choice of the design method for the bottom of the sleeves can significantly change the nature and perception of the product as a whole.
The bottom of the sleeves of a sportswear-style product can be processed in several ways:
• A hem with or without a lapel;
• Cutting cuff;
• Knitted cuff.
1) Bottom hem design
Stitch the lower seam of the sleeves, overcast and iron the allowances.
Overcast the bottom hem allowance, unscrew it on the wrong side, iron and hem with hidden stitches or sew on a typewriter.
The bottom of the sleeve can be decorated with a lapel. To do this, the bottom hem allowance should be increased by the desired lapel width, and the bottom seam of the sleeve in the allowance section should be beveled.
The lapel can be fixed at the seam of the sleeve with hidden stitches or machine fastening exactly in the seam of the sleeve.
2) The design of the bottom trimmed cuff
Trim the stitched cuff. For this, even at the stage of cutting the product, it is necessary to determine the desired height of the cuff. Cut the detail of the pattern of the sleeve horizontally at the desired level of the seam. Cut out the detail of the cuff with an allowance for processing the bottom 1.5−5.0 cm.
Stitch the cuff to the sleeve. Sew both stocks together and iron on the cuff.
Lay the finishing stitch on the cuff.
Stitch the lower seam of the sleeve, overcast and iron out the allowances.
To overcast an allowance for a hem of a bottom, to turn on a wrong side, to iron.
Hem hem hem with hidden stitches.
A sleeve with a stitched cuff in a finished form.
3) The design of the bottom with a knitted cuff
The cuff can be finished knitted or can be made independently from a cloth kashkors or ribans.
Before processing the bottom, the lower seam of the sleeves should be grinded, allowances are swept and ironed.
Important!
The length of the sleeve part is defined as follows: sleeve length by measurement minus half the height of the cuff. This is necessary for the formation of a beautiful overlap over the cuff.
Divide the sleeve volume at the bottom and cuff into 4 equal sections.
Insert the cuff inside the sleeve, combine the lower seam of the sleeve and the seam of the cuff (if any) and the part marks. Distribute the sleeve volume on the cuff evenly.
Sew a line while stretching the cuff part. Overlock allowances.
A sleeve with a knitted cuff in a finished form.
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The author of the master class and photo: Elena Lenkova
Lena has a higher and special education - a tailor of outerwear for men, women and children.
In clothes, he values individuality and thoughtfulness of the image, originality of cut. He likes to analyze modeling techniques and product processing technology. Leads his page on Instagram.
Lena teaches at the Burda Academy and teaches the Men's Shirts and Men's Trousers courses.
"The quality of processing and the interior decoration of the product are integral aspects of sewing."
