Correction of patterns: tucks and embossed seams

A tight-fitting silhouette is in fashion, and again all the attention of tailors is riveted to darts and embossed seams. To make your clothes fit perfectly, follow the advice of professional designers!

If your measurement "chest height" does not match the measurement given in the size chart
burda, then the tuck lines on the chest should be shifted up or down. At the same time,
Draw the details of the paper pattern, and determine your size from the burda table with maximum accuracy, taking into account other measurements, and simply adjust the pattern by the number of centimeters by which your measurement differs from the measurement of the burda table.
Top Landmark
Tucks on the chest from the side seam line.
Draw a dashed line parallel to the mid-front line through the top of the tuck
line. On this line, put the point of the tip of the tuck by the same amount of centimeter
a ditch above or below the marked point, how your measurement differs from the measurement in the burda table.
Draw the tuck lines anew, strictly parallel to the former (1) or shifted up only
top (2). In order not to violate the correctness of the side seam, glue a strip of paper under the side edge of the pattern and chip the tuck along new lines, and then draw a new line
a side seam in the tuck section (3).
Cut the pattern along the drawn line of the side seam, remove
pins and pattern re-straighten (4).
The vertical tuck (5) is shortened or lengthened by such
the same number of centimeters your measurement differs from
measures in the table burda.
Front embossed seam.
On the pattern, draw auxiliary lines exactly at right angles to the line of the middle front or the direction arrow of the shared thread: on the middle part of the shelf - above the line of the relief seam and 10 cm above the waist line, on the side of the shelf - 10 cm above the waist line.
If the most protruding point of the chest needs to be moved up, shorten the middle
part of the shelf along the upper auxiliary line by the desired number of centimeters, and
then add the same number of centimeters on the middle and side parts of the shelves along
bottom support line. In order not to disturb the correctness of the side seam, deepen
armhole for the number of centimeters that you added to the lower auxiliary
Noah line.
If the most protruding point of the chest must be moved down, then the increase is performed
along the upper auxiliary line of the middle part of the shelf, and decrease - along the lower auxiliary
solid line of the middle and lateral parts of the shelf. The armhole line at the side seam line
rushing up.